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Ремонт лодочных моторов джонсон - маленькие хитрости


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Таким образом формируется каталог, в котором представлен максимально полный перечень всех элементов для систем и узлов. Johnson лодочные моторы и запчасти представляет регулярно. Работы по электрике рассчитываются исходя из стоимости нормочаса. Прочие работы по ремонту лодочных моторов. Шплинт порвало что он там вообще делал? А вот и зачем там был шплинт.

Ремонт лодочных моторов

Отверстие в валу штатное. Но там должа была быть более прочная шпонка. Ну хоть бы уже гвоздь туда вставили на крайний случай. Видно, что болгаркой пытались сделать боковой паз, но видимо ничего не вышло Заодно смотрим на масло в редукторе. В нем вода и стружка. Another thing if it dies after it has started or ran a while, do a spark test when it does not want to restart. I suspect you have an electrical problem, and more than likely at either the coils or powerpack. When these electrical components get older and start to fail, at a cold condition, the internals are cool when the windings are separated by insulation. And it just gets worse. Any good marine repair shop should be able to do a test on either of these components. OMC lists the same powerpacks for the 2 cylinder motors as being used for from 6hp to 55hp motors made from to However the wiring boot may be different depending on the year of usage, as the kill button wire is separate on the older models. To do more testing, using an inductive automotive type timing light, alternately clamp on to each plug wire and watch the flash. If it skips and dims, you still have problems with the ignition. I had one motor that would not fire on one cylinder when it was cold, but after it ran a while the other cylinder would kick in then would then run OK. This is just opposite of what you would expect if a coil or electrical component was bad. I had changed plugs more than once, tightened the coil bolts, checked the high tension plug wires, checked the connector wires for corrosion among other things and was about ready to tear my hair out. I even cut a fishing trip short by a few days because I did not want to get stranded in the bay with the wind blowing. It was traced to 2 coil not having any output to the spark plug. I finally swapped coil input wires from the powerpack in the rubber amphenol plug connector boot, electronically changing the coils. The 2 plug now fired, but the plug wire from the old 1 coil was now dead. I then replaced the wires to original positions and replaced that 2 coil with another known good coil. Same results, no fire to 2 plug, so the original 2 coil was OK. This then was starting to point to the powerpack, but when they do go bad, they usually just die for both coils. It was getting late in the evening and I wanted to get the problem taken care of and with the motor still running on the muffs, I just happened to look at the side of the powerhead, there was blue arcing off the bottom powerpack bolt.

Инструкции к лодочным моторам JOHNSON

Upon checking, I found the bolts holding the powerpack to the block were loose, not creating a good enough ground. Why this condition only effected the 2 coil, I will never know. In my mind I knew it in all probability was a bad ground, but where, I would probably never have checked that bolt without seeing the arcing in the dim light. The good Lord does look out for us shade tree mechanics sometimes. On the above motor after tightening all the ground wires, this motor still acted up as before. All the tests then pointed to the powerpack. I bit the bullet, bought a new powerpack and problem solved. I suspect that since it took many fishing trips over a period of 6 months, thinking I had found the problem after each time, that one output wire or diode from the powerpack had become internally partially shorted out because of the loose ground under the one coil. The Johnson sat for 3 years, but would not produce any spark when tried to start it then. This motor appeared to be running fine when it was removed from the boat. Testing was done and the powerpack was bad. I replaced the powerpack. I then traded it off to a friend who lived near the beach, only to have it die on the new owner. No spark on either plug. When I got the motor back it was really hot weather, I let it set for a while as I loaned him a different motor. From all indications it pointed to the new powerpack failing. Check the bottom plug for spark, it was OK. Maybe the could were not being grounded properly, so when I pulled them off this model had both coils made together as a dually unit. What I found was the back side of the coil where it was sealed around the hard rubber housing, that the rubberish sealing had came loose and even had evidence of something being corroded inside, forcing the sealant out and away from the body. My guess was that in his high salt air moisture environment that there was just enough moisture inside to short things out. For those of you who use a remote control and therefore a electric choke, this electrical diagram for the electric starter is not shown, apparently the factory considers this an alteration of sorts. All I can say is that the electric choke is simply a wire from the switch, relaying power to the choke solenoid. If that is OK then check that the solenoid is grounded. The thumbnail photos below are for the OMC 9. Electrical diagram for manual starter motor. Electrical diagram for electric starter motor.

ремонт подвесных лодочных моторов джонсон

Click on the above thumbnails for larger picture. For remote controls that use a key type ignition switch, the letters on the rear of this switch being M and possibly two of these M lugs used for the kill circuit, will as above, have either both black or a black and a black with yellow stripe. B will be the battery wire and be red or red with a purple stripe. The S or start lug will have a yellow wire to the starter solenoid. I lug will be a hot 12 volt wire to anything needing power and will be a purple wire. C the electric choke will be a purple with a white stripe wire. On OMC motors made from and on which have the kill button on the tiller handle, if either of the clips shown below are missing the motor will not start, kind of like turning a key OFF. There are 2 variations of this, the one shown is from a to aboutwhich as it on the end of the twist grip throttle handle. This part is also known in the parts manual as Restart Clip. Outboard motors used in certain applications, e. For applications such as these, the cut-off switch can be disabled by replacing the clip and lanyard assembly A with the OMC Clip Assembly Bas shown. If the motor application changes, reactivate the cut-off switch feature by replacing the clip B with the original clip and lanyard assembly A ". But then, if its still running good, leave it alone.

  • Трос для дистанционного управления лодочным мотором suzuki
  • Киев лодка стеклопластиковая
  • Где не ловит теле2 по россии
  • Лучшие цвета приманок на щуку
  • You will find that about 8 out of ten stators will have that brown goo leaking out of them after a few years of heat. If you want to check the voltage to see if its up to par, check the AC voltage between each pair of brown wires going to the CDI. For motors to run, it has to have an uninterrupted supply of fuel AND air in the correct proportions. If all else fails, and the motor is in good shape, it should start by being artificially being fed fuel. First I would say, look closely at all the fuel line connectors, are they snapped onto the tank and motor correctly?

    ремонт подвесных лодочных моторов джонсон

    If not, it can give you headaches. If this is the case, the motor may suck air into the fuel system, even to the point the motor will die. This can also be seen where a auxiliary motor is ran off the same main fuel tank. If the motor has sat for a while and just pumping the fuel primer bulb does not get the motor at least sputtering after you have concluded that the electronics are OK, have a squirt oil can with the proper gas to oil mix, try to start it by squirting fuel into the air intake of the carburetor as you pull the manual starter rope. A squirt or 2 of starting fluid into the air intake is plenty. It is better to use a plastic pump lever bottle with gasoline mix in it. Before we get to involved here, maybe we should consider the fuel and type of fuel being used. The OMC service manual from states that any fuel that is designed to be used in an automobile can be used for these motors. Their recommended minimum octane rating is 86, up to This was never even thought of at the time these motors were designed. From what is being pushed now for marine usage it is not good for the older fuel lines, it even loosens gunked up fuel tank debris, creates problems inside the carburetors, plus absorbing moisture from the marine air into the fuel tanks. And any old stale fuel would also not be recommended.

    ремонт подвесных лодочных моторов джонсон

    First to check would be is the fuel fresh and clean? If the tank could have sat outside or in a boat in the weather, there could be some leakage around the cap, or gauge where water may have snuck in. If any water is in with the gas, you will NOT have a smooth running motor, maybe even could not keep it running if you got it started as water intrusion in the carburetor will not flow through the carburetor jets. Now if you tried to start it with contaminated fuel, you have that bad fuel inside the carburetor, which will need to be torn apart and cleaned. It you live in a area where fuel contamination can be a problem, it may be best to install a water separator filter system in the fuel line. The primer bulb is a manual fuel pump of sorts. When you operate the primer bulb or manual fuel pump when the carburetor fills with fuel, it should start. The fuel pump does not come into play after the starting. If you get a gurgling noise the primer bulb as you are squeezing, it is usually not functioning right. There are two spring loaded check valves in this bulb, one one each end, where the one closest to the tank stops the fuel from flowing back into the tank, while the one toward the motor retains what is in the bulb until you squeeze it again. A spring could have become broken or dislodged, breaking the chain of the bulb sucking from the tank and then pushing to to the motor. With the motor running your bulb is no more than a fat piece of fuel hose so you can expect it to become soft at that point. After the motor has run enough to remove this pressure of the internal fuel you have pumped, the bulb should become soft as the fuel flows thru it. If primer bulb NEVER gets hard, you could have a air leak in the fuel line up to the fuel pump, it is possible that the fuel is shooting into the crankcase, or the carburetor float needle is not seating, but if this is the case then fuel should be leaking out of the carburetor. Some motors will have a fuel primer system instead of a choke. The incoming main line goes as before, directly to the carburetor, but with the Teed line to the primer. For some, the main fuel line goes directly to the carburetor and then a separate line from the bottom of the carburetor bowl goes to the primer. From the primer body, another line goes into the carburetor throat or into the intake manifold, bypassing the carburetor. These primers usually have 3 positions, 1 In, is that it is inactive, 2 All the way out it squirts a small amount of fuel into the carburetor or manifold to prime the motor.

    ремонт подвесных лодочных моторов джонсон

    What is happening is that the motor is sucking air around the leaky O-Rings and not getting enough fuel. Second to check would be to whether fuel is coming to the motor. It works best if you hold the primer bulb upright, with the outlet upward when pumping it. If the check valve spring is weak, this will help the pumping by not allowing the fuel to bypass and go back into the tank. The primer bulb should become hard after about 3 or 4 pumps when the carburetor bowl becomes full, the float valve stops the fuel from bypassing, going in to the carburetor float bowl. Нет времени или желания ехать в мастерскую? Наш курьер сам доставит Вашу технику в мастерскую, ее починят, оформят гарантию и привезут уже отремонтированную с документами. Вам нужно только позвонить В этой хреновине и загвоздка- у девайса пропадает жёсткость и он начинает пробуксовывать. Заменить этот редуктор по гарантии стоило мне геморроя. Дело в том, что в документации эта гарантия была указана на 3 года, однако в торговой точке мне начали вешать лапшу про какую-то опечатку. Продолжаю рассказывать про то, как происходит ремонт лодочных моторов Джонсон. В сервисном центре сказали, что это типичная неполадка. Поменять это на собственные деньги вылилось бы примерно в половину цены самого мотора. Заливает свечи- значит или нет искры, или искра не вовремя, или льёт карбюратор, или нет компрессии. Что делать к кому обратиться. Замена крыльчатки помпы до 30л. Минимальная тарификация - 0,5 часа. Если Вы уже обращались за техобслуживанием лодочных моторов Johnson Evinrudeто Вам наверняка известно, что этот процесс включает не только замену технологических жидкостей, но и главное — подготовку устройства к полноценному использованию. Вследствие долгих лет работы, специалисты компании Баркас, занимающейся ремонтом лодочных моторов ветерок Johnson Evinrude, установили, что зачастую двигатель плавсредства прекращает свое функционирование из-за засорения карбюратора или прочих деталей топливной системы.

    ремонт подвесных лодочных моторов джонсон

    Другой причиной специалисты называют отказ электрики в системе зажигания. Выполняя техническое обслуживание лодочных моторов Johnson Evinrude, сотрудники компании Баркас проводят максимально эффективную промывку, разборку и чистку карбюратора. Далее происходит регулирование полной системы зажигания и самого карбюратора. Все детали, которые уже не функционируют на высшем уровне, сразу же заменяются своими новыми аналогами. Детали, которые еще не нуждаются в замене, с особой внимательностью проверяются.

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